For this same reason, I wouldn’t recommend scrubbing the inside of the shade with your hands. Again, be careful not to put too much water inside the shade at one time – you don’t want the weight of the water to separate the plastic shade from the metal structure (the two are lightly attached/glued during the spraying/manufacturing process). I drained and rinsed the inside until no more soap bubbles appeared. The 4-inch hole came in handy as a drain for the water. I then put some soap inside the shade with just enough water to slosh around as I gently rotated the shade (imagine someone panning for gold) to dislodge dirt and dead bugs. I used the eraser with the idea of just reducing the intensity of the stubborn stains to be more in keeping with the rest of the shade material and not trying to scrub until the surface was white. The eraser sponge is made of really tiny rectangular pieces of melamine foam that scrape the surface of whatever you are cleaning. Note- cautiously use the Magic Eraser and don’t scrub too much in one area. I think the shade was previously hung in a room where lots of cigarettes were smoked and perhaps near a kitchen (the grease trapping the smoke primarily on the top of the shade and especially at the transition between top and bottom). These areas were primarily at the far edges of the lamp where the top transitions to the bottom. Clean eraser for the areas still not cleaned with dish soap alone. ![]() I scrubbed the outside of the shade three times and then used a Mr. I did not want to allow the weight of the water to push and detach the plastic away from the metal structure. I then gave it a good gentle scrubbing in the bathtub, working in sections and rinsing with my detachable shower head – trying to not fill the inside of the shade with too much water at a time. The brush was perfect for cleaning the fragile plastic material. I cleaned the shade with a gentle plant-based dish soap (Everspring from Target) and my gentle bristle back scrubbing bamboo shower brush I bought at Whole Foods years ago. It’s easy to remove the rings by gently prying two of the three prongs back with flat pliers and even your hands and carefully lifting out as to not catch the raw edges of the plastic shade fabric inside the top and bottom holes. ![]() I took the metal rings off at the top and bottom before cleaning so water didn’t get trapped under the rings and also to preserve the Modernica stickers. ![]() NYC trash piles can be awesome! Usually I am annoyed with how wasteful this city is, but on that day I thanked the trash gods. It is so crazy that someone threw it out. It was slightly yellowed and needed to be rewired but still had the original Modernica canopy. It was heavily soiled and had a hole about 1/2 inch wide by 4-inch long. I found a large (35 inch diameter) Nelson (Modernica) Saucer Bubble Pendant in a NYC sidewalk trash pile this past fall when walking back home through NoHo/East Village. Tuesday, 9 February 2021 at 3:38 am | Reply Perhaps you could post a question at AT about patching the hole? The discoloration is addresed in this exchange at Apartment Therapy, and the people there seem to have some success in getting it back to its original color with a “phosphate-free TSP and a Mr Clean Magic Eraser”:Ĭleaning in progress (from the thread above): I’m not sure if holes in a Bubble Lamp can be repaired easily–or indeed if at all. Thursday, 30 July 2009 at 7:41 pm | Reply It has a small hole that I need to somehow fix. I recently acquired an old clearly abused one. ![]() Wednesday, 29 July 2009 at 7:53 am | ReplyĪny advice on how to repair a George Nelson Bubble Pendant? You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.Ĩ Responses to “Cleaning a George Nelson Bubble Lamp” You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. This entry was posted on Saturday, 30 August 2008 at 8:22 pm and is filed under Bubble Lamps, Modernica, Our Brands.
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